Table saws and contractor's table saw

Some manufacturers make kits for their saws that do a good job. Others either don't have the kits or what they have is not worth a whole lot.For a contractor's saw, the best option is to connect a 4" - 6" duct to the bottom of the saw with either a manufactured or shop-made plate. Then seal up the back side of the housing as best you can. Make sure that whatever you do on the back allows for free movement of the motor and drive belts. Some people have found that making various plates out of foam or plywood with magnets for attaching to the cabinet have worked well. One thing to remember is that you don't want to completely seal this opening up, the slit in your table insert is fairly small, especially if you use zero-clearance inserts and the dust collector needs to draw enough air to keep the sawdust suspended, so it will need to draw some air through the back or elsewhere. After all of this you should also look at a second pickup attached over the blade since an under-cabinet arrangement will not be able to get everything. Integrated bladeguard/dust ports are the best option and can be purchased or made.  Try this site also: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/dust_enclosure.jpg  Cabinet saws are generally much easier to hook up to dust collection due to their designs.

The table saw is typical of "tools in the middle of the floor" and getting DC duct to these can be a problem. There are a couple of methods that work. The best option is to run the duct beneath the floor of your shop. This will completely eliminate having anything strung across the floor or something coming down from the ceiling which could limit the size of materials you work with on a tablesaw. You can run this duct beneath the floor (wood or concrete) in some shops or install a trench with wood or metal grates over it. Another option if you have a concrete floor is to install a wood floor over the concrete. This will not only allow you to run electrical and dust collection to centralized tools, but will also provide some comfort and longevity for your knees and back and will look better.

A less desirable option is to drop the duct down from the ceiling. This can be tricky since you need the duct to come down directly next to your TS to avoid having anything run across the floor. Be careful that you don't limit your cutting width capacity too much.  The best place to drop a line is at the far (back) right-hand corner of the saw where it will get in your way the least.  This is the corner that is farthest from you when you are standing at the saw as though you were using it.

Bandsaws

Again, some manufacturers make kits for their saws that do a good job. Others either don't have the kits or what they have is not worth a whole lot. Various people on the rec.woodworking newsgroup have tried various ways of attacking this problem with differing results. The generally recommended approach is to utilize two ducts, one connected to the lower wheel housing and the other just below the table near the lower guides. I believe this issue can also be solved by purchasing a Laguna bandsaw.

Mitre or Chop Saws

And once again, some manufacturers make kits for their saws that do a good job. Others either don't have the kits or what they have is not worth a whole lot. The generally recommended approach is to utilize two ducts, one connected to the odd sized outlet on the back (see next question) of the mitre saw and the other underneath (careful to balance the sizes of the two so that each gets the proper amount of air velocity). The one on back will get anywhere from nothing to about 80% of the dust depending on the manufacturer's design. For the bottom duct you need to first make sure that you don't interfere with any of the mechanical functions of the saw, particularly the blade at it's lowest position (actually you won't interfere with it, but it will very dramatically interfere with your duct). You will also need to seal up the area beneath the saw somewhat.
 
 

Scroll saws

There are several areas to address here. First, the chip blowers on many scroll saws are worthless (at least all that I've seen). You can easily add a better blower with some 1/4" flex-hold tube connected to an aquarium pump or your air compressor. Don't forget to include an adjustable valve so that you can adjust how much air comes out so that you don't just blow everything in your face. Also, you should make sure that you have enough of the flex so that you can blow air away from you rather than at you.

Now, that done, we can address getting rid of the dust and particles. There are two ways to do this, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. The first way is to use your dust collection system with a rectangular shroud (8" x 4" or similar) placed near your work. Make sure you put a piece of mesh or screen over the shroud to prevent small pieces that you want to keep from ending up in the dust collector. The second option, and often the better, is to build a larger plywood shroud that is placed around your scroll saw. This shroud usually has a back, two sides (at 60 deg angles to the back, not 90) and a top (possibly a 60 also). All sides approx. 36" x 36". The back of the shroud should house some type of fans, either a connection to your dust collector, some Pamoters (like in a PC or other electronics), or a household fan. If you use the Pamoters or fan you should also include a 1 micron filter (like a 3M Filtrete) to filter dust prior to the fan.

Sanders

Most stationary sanders have DC ports on them, but portable sanders can be tougher.  Some manufacturers have kits that attach in place of the usual dust bag, but they are often hard to find so check with a serious place like Tool Crib or Tools-On-Sale (7-Corners Hardware) for these things (or call the manufacturer of the sander).  You can always make adapters with small flexble hose and adapters (below) to fit your tools.  Sanding stations are also useful.  These can be either a box similar to the one described above in Scroll Saws or a box with a grate or other perforated top that connect to your DC hose.  As often noted here, multi-pronged attacks work best (e.g.: connect a hose and use a sanding station).

Adapters

Try: http://www.rockler.com or http://www.hartvilletool.com. Also, some manufacturers carry adaptors to adapt their stuff to standard 4" or 5" ducting. In any case you want to adapt up to your branch size quickly so that you do not significantly reduce your airflow. I have also found that an hour of the Red-Green Show (PBS) and a few rolls of duct (or duck!) tape can work wonders.  Sometimes a trip to the plumbing and/or HVAC department of your local home center can be helpful.  Bring the problem parts with you and try fitting various parts together.

Should I purchase or make one of the ceiling mount air-filtration systems like the JDS 2000?

Depends. If you purchase a system such as the Oneida integral dust collector/cyclone, you may not need a separate air filtration unit unless you do a lot of sanding with tools not connected to your DC. Also, if you place your DC system in a sealed room/closet with sub-micron filters such as 3M Filtrete furnace filters filtering the air as it reenters the room (or you exhaust the air outside and bring in fresh somewhere else), you may not need a separate unit. If you don't do either of these and you do create dust, you should probably consider a good air-filtration system. JDS, Delta, Jet, and others make these units and they are also fairly easy to build (see June 2000 American Woodworker or Brook's page for plans)

Once I have a dust collection system will I still need to wear a dust mask?

[Editor's/host's note: If you have questions on this particular topic, I will refer you to the parts of my web site that have fairly comprehensive coverage of respiratory protection topics for the hobbyist woodworker, but will leave Folklore's original discussion of the topic intact below also. - Dave]

For certain operations you should definitely were a dust mask even when you have the best dust collection and air filtration system in the world. Anytime you're sanding, cutting MDF or similar materials, or applying finish are good times to consider a mask. Also, if your dust collection system does not filter down to at least 1 micron or below you should consider wearing a mask anytime you are creating dust of any sort. The collector may suck up everything from the work you are doing, but the stuff below the size of your filters capability will be spewed all over your shop, sometimes creating a worse health hazard than if you had no dust collection at all. Investment in a good mask with replaceable filter cartridges is worth the money. They're not exactly a fashion statement, but then again, if you're wearing a good pair of safety glasses then this issue's already out the window anyway. 3M is generally considered the leader in this field for both commercial and hobby with their 6000 series. You can also try the Dust Be Gone mask - http://www.dustbeegone.com, though it is not NIOSH approved.

Be careful what kind of filters the mask has on it initially. Many come standard with 'chemical' filters which should be exchanged for dust filters. Put the chemical filters in a sealed baggy so they're ready to use when you spray something. Don't forget to clean/change the filters occasionally and check the purge valve as well. Also note that some chemical filters have a short life once they have been exposed to air. This life can be as short as 2 hours.

From experienced folks on R.WW:

DustFoe 88 - About $30 from http://www.highlandhardware.com Lightweight, won't fog glasses, rubber seal, and has replaceable filters. Available from Highland Hardware in Atlanta for $25-$30. This also works well for people with beards. The mask works for dust only, not fumes.

3M (old Racal) Power-Visor - About $160 from http://envirosafetyproducts.comorAirware america

3M 6000-series half or full face respirators. It is one of the few full face masks that cannot fog. This is because the design of this very comfortable mask separates the breathing part from the face sheild part. You can get dust filters for this so that you don't have to use your filter cartridges (these cartridges do have a shelf life once they have been exposed to air, and that life is very short, perhaps 8 to 12 hours of exposure). If you do get this full face mask, be sure to purchase the lens sheild covers that are available. These are clear plastic sheilds that fit right onto the lens of the mask. Replacing the lens is expensive should it get scratched. These lens covers are not.

The mask is about $100. It is as comfortable as any mask that you could ever put on. The filters and cartridges are all compatible with the 6000 series half mask respirator (3M's Easy Care). And both of these
respirators allow for easy hook up to a positive feed fresh air supply. Just hook the hose with a compatible fitting to where you would normally fit the cartridges onto.

This full face respirator is so much more effective than those white dust masks. Like it or not, sawdust is a potential carcinogen. And the industrial asthma that you can get from exposure to saw dust is not curable, and it
does not go away.
 

Reducing fogging of safety glasses when wearing a dust mask

In general a good mask that seals around your face well and has replaceable filter cartridges will eliminate problems with fogging. Other options include; 1) Anti-fog juice (available from scuba shops and some auto supply places) or 2) Spit (yep, that fine stuff from your mouth). Spit on the inside of the lens and wipe it around (don't dry it). This will almost always work. Family Handyman magazine also mentioned something recently about using Shaving Cream.

Also, to reduce and/or eliminate dust cling to the outside you can try wiping your lenses with clothes dryer fabric softener sheets. There are rumors that this also works well for the dust chutes on jointers and other tools.

Is the dust from some woods more irritating or dangerous than others?

Yes. Many people have reported strong reactions to some woods, especially the dust. For example, Yew is known to have potential cardiovascular impacts. See references and chart below for more information on toxicity of wood.

The following chart appeared in American Woodturner, June 1990,
Originally posted to rec.woodworking by Bruce Taylor taylor@tpwosf.tay1.dec.com
See below for key to entries.
 

Wood Species	Reaction	Site	Potency	Source	Incidence
Bald Cypress	S	R	+	D	R
Balsam Fir	S	E,S	+	LB	C
Beech	S,C	E,S,R	++	LB,D	C
Birch	S	R	++	W,D	C
Black Locust	I,N	E,S	+++	LB	C
Blackwood	S	E,S	++	W,D	C
Boxwood	S	E,S	++	W,D	C
Cashew	S	E,S	+	W,D	R
Cocobolo	I,S	E,S,R	+++	W,D	C
Dahoma	I	E,S	++	W,D	C
Ebony	I,S	E,S	++	W,D	C
Elm	I	E,S	+	D	R
Goncalo Alves	S	E,S	++	W,D	R
Greenheart	S	E,S	+++	W,D	C
Hemlock	C	R	?	D	U
Iroko	I,S,P	E,S,R	+++	W,D	C
Mahogany	S,P	S,R	+	D	U
Mansonia	I,S	E,S	+++	W,D	C
Maple (Spalted)	S,P	R	+++	D	C
Mimosa	N	?	?	LB	U
Myrtle	S	R	++	LB,D	C
Oak	S	E,S	++	LB,D	R
Obeche	I,S	E,S,R	+++	W,D	C
Oleander	DT	NC	++++	D,W,LB	C
Olivewood	I,S	E,S,R	+++	W,D	C
Opepe	S	R	+	D	R
Padauk	S	E,S,R	+	W,D	R
Pau Ferro	S	E,S	+	W,D	R
Peroba Rosa	I	R,N	++	W,D	U
Purpleheart	?	N	++	D,W	C
Quebracho	I	R,N	++	LB,D	C
Redwood	S,P	E,S,R	++	D	R
Rosewoods	I,S	E,S,R	++++	W,D	U
Satinwood	I	E,S,R	+++	W,D	C
Sassafras	S	R	+	D	C
Sequoia	I	R	+	D	R
Snakewood	I	R	++	W,D	R
Spruce	S	R	+	W,D	R
Walnut, Black	S	E,S	++	W,D	C
Wenge	S	E,S,R	+	W,D	C
Willow	S	R,N	+	D,W,LB	U
Western Red Cedar	S	R	+++	D,LB	C
Teak	S,P	E,S,R	++	D	C
Yew	I	E,S	++	D	C
Zebrawood	S	E,S	++	W,D	R

Key to Toxicity Chart

Reaction	Site	Source	Incidence
I - Irritant S - Sensitizer C - Nasopharyngeal Cancer P - Pheumonitis, Alveolitis DT - Direct Toxin N - Nausea, Mailais	E - Eyes S - Skin R - Respiratory C - Cardiac	D - Dust W - Wood LB - Leaves, Bark	C - Common U - Uncommon R - Rare

References:
- Woods Toxic to Man, author unknown
- Woods, B., Calnan, C.D., "Toxic Woods." Br. Journal of Dermatology 1976
- ILO Encyclopedia of Occupational Health and Safety 1983
- Lame, K., McAnn, M., AMA Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, AMA 1985
- Poisondex, Micromedix Inc. 1990
 

Clogging filters on wet/dry vacs (from fine wood dust)

First, you should invest in a "CleanStream" filter which is much better than the paper filters normally included with wet/dry vacs and has more surface area. These are available from several warehouse places and from most online/catalog woodworking shops. Second, you can stretch some pantyhose over the filter. This will slow down the clogging so that you clean it less often. Don't forget to remove/replace this each time you clean the filter.
 

What to do with all of the shavings and sawdust

Some common uses are both mulch and compost in the garden and as a bedding for animals, particularly horses. In either of these cases however you must be EXTREMELY careful about what you have. Some woods and most chemicals (glue, etc.) can be very detrimental to some plants and animals. If you're not sure, you should throw it out in the trash (unless local regulations don't permit this). Pressure treated lumber dust should always be tossed. Jeff Gorman's page http://www.millard.demon.co.uk/Shavings.htm has some interesting thoughts on this.

Other Resources and Links (There are many others, but these will get you started)

Magazine Articles
American Woodworker - June 2000 - Great review.
Wood - December '98 - Build a Cylcone
Shop Notes Issue #13 - Build a Cylcone
FWW #100

Books
Woodshop Dust Control - Sandor Nagyszalanczy - ISBN: 1-56158-116-X

General Websites - "Must visit"
http://www.jimthompson.net/family/
http://www.oneida-air.com
http://dstig.mypeoplepc.com/dust1.html

Manufacturers
http://www.airhand.com
http://www.oneida-air.com
http://www.jettools.com
http://www.pennstateind.com
http://www.deltawoodworking.com

About Filter Bags
http://dstig.mypeoplepc.com/dust1.html

Design & Build
Principles: http://www.wsu.edu:8080/~gmhyde/433_web_pages/cyclones/-CycloneOverview.html
Parts for Home Built: http://www.pennstateind.com/cyclon2.html
Micheal Simpsons Home Built: http://www.mgsweb.com/woodworking/cyclone/cyclone.htm
Brooks Home Built Ambient Filter System: http://www.geocities.com/drvermin/Overheadfilter/airfilter.html
RJLarson's Home Built: http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/dust.htm
Guy Ulven's Home Built: http://www.kiva.net/~rjbrown/w5/contributors/dust_collect.html
Al Sweet's Home Built: http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot119.shtml
Scott Crumps DC & AF: http://gnv.fdt.net/~scc/wood.htm
Ken Vaughn's RAS: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/ras_dust_coll.jpg

PVC & Grounding (dust ignition by static electricity)
http://www.gis.net/~dheaton/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.shtml

Toxicity of Wood (Thanks to JOAT)
http://www.mimf.com/archives/toxic.htm
http://www.city-net.com/albertfp/toxic.htm
http://members.home.net/jpaquay/woodhaz.txt
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~woodlink/dust.htm